LETTER FROM THE NORTH I

Hello Sisters,

This is your sister writing to you from Bolga the Capital of the Upper East Region of Ghana. Please remember us in your solemn moments; it is hot and dry, scorching hot. Thank God for air conditioned cars and rooms otherwise I do not think I would have been capable of writing to say I am fine and enjoying myself, yes, enjoyment at its peak. Do you not know that it is a luxury to be on the field and have a half day free to do as you wish? Yes a huge luxury and today the 20th of February I decided to make use of that opportunity for it comes only once in a decade on the field.

First we started on a 32 km journey from my lodging place to Paga, a 45 minutes ride, I am sure you have already guessed my mission in Paga, to visit the much talked about crocodile pond. The first sight of the place does not make an impression. All you see is a pond with some cows grazing by, undeveloped land and nothing to catch your attention but, wait a minute, there are these young men cooling off under a summer hut. They quickly approached our vehicle and welcomed us in the friendliest voice you can hear away from home “you are welcome madam” I quickly respond “thank you young men, how are you doing?” “We are fine thank you madam” then they froze (about 4 of them) as if lost in words and thoughts, so I quickly picked up the conversation and told them we were there to see the famous crocodiles of Paga. Their faces quickly brightened up and assumed a kind of business look. “You are welcome once again” said the eldest who appeared to be the leader of the group. “You need to buy fowls and pay a gate fee”. My beloved sisters there is no gate, no fence, wall, nothing, it is a no woman’s land. Well, I thought, I will not argue and spoil my afternoon, remember this is a life time opportunity. A tourist will board a plane all the way from far far away just to come and see these crocodiles and if God has brought me into the vicinity I need to play it wise.

So I asked for the admission fee and the cost of a fowl. I was shown what looked more like chicks and told that those were the preference of the crocodiles. I was also told that I had to buy two fowls. Remember these are no mere crocodiles, not the type you come across in rivers such as the Nile and Mississippi. Once all business transactions were undertaken to the letter the young men picked up the fowls and asked us to follow them to the edge of the pond. Just when we got to the edge of the pond a much older guy comes running holding a fowl, says something in their local dialect and then one of the young men returns with the fowl he was holding (I guess this is called divide and share).Anyway that is none of my business I went to see crocodiles and not to meddle in the politics of the crocodile pond.

Just when we got to a safe distance from the edge of the pond I could see the crocodiles, there were at least three of them coming out of the water. Apparently they are attracted by the cry of the fowls. They came ashore and kept coming nearer and nearer till the distance started getting unsafe. (Remember crocodiles are amphibians). So the chief tour guide as we will call him hit the fowl on the ground and the crocodile lay as calm and docile as a baby. I was asked to hold the tail of the crocodile which I did reluctantly and unmajestically after mustering tons of courage. However I never was able to mount up courage to sit on its back as I was beckoned to do.

After watching the crocodiles grab the fowls and consumingr them in seconds I got a history lesson on why the crocodiles in the Paga pond do not harm the citizens and why the citizens do not hunt or eat the meat of the crocodile. I also got to know that sometimes the crocodiles could crawl as far as to the nearby homes unharmed and undisturbed. The crocodiles are always buried like human beings when they die. I was also informed that crocodiles are territorial animals and that they protect their territories and do not meddle in others territories, therefore to see different crocodiles at the pond you need to call them from different sections of the pond. It is believed that there are about a hundred crocodiles in the Paga crocodile pond and that the oldest is about 80 years.

After bidding my new friends bye we set off on our return journey and on the way we noticed something we had not bargained and planned for. Yes on that T junction is a sign post that read Pikworo Slave Camp. I would not miss the opportunity for anything, I had nothing else to do that afternoon and besides it is just 2 km from the pond, barely five minutes ride. What did I have to loose? Read about my adventure climbing and descending rocks in the village of Nania in my next blog. By the way, Nania is the village of the famous Ghanaian footballer Abedi Pele and in fact his family home is a stone throw from the slave camp of Nania.

I trust you are all well. See you soon.


With all my love

Beatrice in Bolgatanga, the capital of the Upper East Region of Ghana